What does a clothing pattern maker do?
Generally, a clothes manufacturers pattern maker is someone who makes/remakes an item of clothing based on a different pattern or design. Where exactly in the process this work is being done is the confusion. A pattern maker who takes the ideas of a designer's boss and translates them into a physical garment is at the extreme end of the spectrum. At the other extreme is a swatch maker using a tech pack and label swatch and creating a production swatch for a factory. These are often used for reference or to show the customer that the factory can achieve the desired result. In between these two things are sample makers who can handle all the other tasks. And the price range is just as wide.
For example, let us
say you have an idea for a new bikini design, and you are looking for a
swimsuit sample cutter to bring your idea to life. You have sketches, some inspect
images, and a solid idea in mind of what it should look like. Now you are
looking for a bikini pattern maker. While it may seem like an easy task for the
newbie, it isn’t. The sample manufacturer must:
1) Interpret your
wishes
2) Roughly layout
3) Create a pattern
4) Customize the
pattern
5) Make any necessary
changes / revisions
6) Acquisition and
selection of final fabrics
7) Source and
selection of all different results such as buttons, zippers, etc.
8) Sew the last piece
for delivery.
Then you need to
repeat several steps for each classified size. That is a lot of work!
All of this must somehow endure awfully scrutiny by the customer. To the frustration of the sample maker, the customer often expects to pay a little
more for the item than it would have cost on a store shelf. Even with a price
per sample of 3-5 times the manufacturing cost (which is a common sample price
from a manufacturer), the sample wholesale clothing manufacturers simply
cannot afford to do so much upfront work for such a small profit.
A client who is just
starting out cannot really be responsible for this situation. If you have not
been through it before, understanding how it works can be difficult. The
customer feels neglected and the provider feels underpaid.
Let us simplify!
To make it easier, let
us break it down a bit and apply some new definitions. At our company, we use a
few different terms to facilitate communication with our clients. We do not use
the term "pattern" to refer to all initial designs. We call this
process "prototyping." Prototyping is one of the "product
development" processes. So, when we develop a fashion product for a
client, we work on prototypes. If a customer comes up with the first prototype of
their own design, that piece of the prototype v1. As we work with more
prototypes, the number just changes to reflect our progress. V1, v2, v3 ... and
so on. In our nomenclature, prototyping is part of the design process.
After and only after
the prototyping process is complete, we begin to use the term
"pattern". So, a sample is a copy of a final prototype. That makes
things easier for both of us. It would be unwise to create patterns at a stage
where the design is not yet finished. There would be duplicate bugs that have
not yet been resolved. Once we start using the term pattern, everyone will have
a clearer idea of the condition of the item. The samples are then referenced materials and are not part of the design process.

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